Access Nantes A working port that made its industry public.
The Grand Éléphant, Nantes
NANTES · LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE

Nantes builds machines and lets you ride them.

The shipyards closed and the island did not. Nantes turned its cranes into a twelve-metre mechanical elephant you can ride, its biscuit factory into an arts centre and its banana warehouse into a bar strip — and it marks what it did as France's largest slaving port on the quay the ships left from.

Adam Bishop, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
12 mthe elephant is tall
1985France's first modern tram
20sights, one page each
2,000plaques on the memorial
freethe château courtyard
50 kmto the Atlantic

What Nantes is

Nantes sits on the Loire about fifty kilometres from the Atlantic, and it was built by what moved through that river — sugar, salt, ships, and for most of the eighteenth century enslaved people. It was the capital of the dukes of Brittany, and it is still the city Brittany argues about, because the administrative region it sits in is not Brittany.

The shipyards on the island closed in 1987. What the city did next is the reason to come: it kept the sheds and the cranes and filled them with enormous working machines, turned the LU biscuit factory into an arts centre, and ran a green line along the pavement to join it all up.

It also, late and deliberately, built a memorial on the quay the slaving ships left from — two thousand glass plaques set into the ground, one for each expedition.

Nantes at a glance

CountryFrance · Loire-Atlantique, historically Brittany
Population~320,000 in the commune; about a million in the metropolitan area
On the riverThe Loire, about 50 km from the Atlantic
LanguageFrench. English is common in the centre, less so across the water
Getting aroundThree tram lines and a river shuttle on the same ticket
Closing dayMost museums shut on Monday or Tuesday — check which
HistoryFrance's largest slaving port. The city marks it on the quay

Start here

Twelve sections as twelve engraved plates bolted to a steel frame — because this city's whole argument is that it kept the machinery and let you walk into it.

All twenty sights